The Poetry of Thinness: The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo and the Art of Subtraction

Hasan Bekmezci · · 5 min read
Bvlgari

Bvlgari

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The Octagon of Rome: The Architecture of Simplicity

Near the centre of Rome, in a minimalist architecture studio set on the top floor of an old building, the midday light fell across a white marble floor. There was not a single unnecessary object in the room: a work table, a few models, and on the wall sketches made of nothing but lines. The architect Elena had devoted her years to knowing not what to add, but what to take away. To her, a building was what remained after everything that could be removed had been removed.

Facing her stood Paolo, a master from Bvlgari's workshop in Neuchatel, a small box in his hands. Elena had always kept her distance from watches; she found most of them showy, needlessly heavy and crowded. But when Paolo opened the box and she saw the octagonal watch inside, almost as thin as a sheet of paper, she fell silent for a moment.

'Let me be honest,' said Elena. 'I take pride in everything I can remove from a building. A column, a wall, an ornament; when I throw away all that is unnecessary, what remains is the true beauty. But I never believed a watch could share that same discipline.' Paolo smiled and set the watch on the marble table. 'That is exactly why I am here. This is the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo, renewed for 2026. In our craft, too, the hardest thing is not to add, but to subtract. The Octo Finissimo is the masterpiece of watchmaking's art of subtraction.'

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"Perfection is reached not when there is nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to take away."

Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
Bvlgari
Titanium and yellow-gold Octo Finissimo side by side: one octagonal language, two different souls.

The Physics of Thinness: The Triumph of Less

Paolo held the watch up to the light. 'People take thinness for a feat, a show,' he said. 'In truth it is a torment. The thinner you make a movement, the weaker the parts become; they flex, they rub against one another and stop at the slightest shock. Thickness is really safety; every millimetre you remove, you begin to wrestle with physics itself.'

'And how does Bvlgari win that wrestle?' asked Elena, genuinely curious now. 'With obsession,' said Paolo. 'Since 2014 the Octo Finissimo has broken record after record: the world's thinnest tourbillon, thinnest automatic, thinnest minute repeater. More than eight thinness records. Each time they pushed a little past the limit everyone thought was final.'

'This year's new Octo Finissimo 37 carries that thinness into a more wearable body,' he went on. 'Inside beats the completely redesigned BVF 100 calibre: only 2.35 millimetres thick, 31 millimetres across. What winds it is a platinum micro-rotor sunk into the dial; because platinum is a heavy metal, even a tiny piece swings enough with the motion of your wrist to wind the mainspring, and it does so without taking up space. It runs at 21,600 vibrations an hour, breathing three times a second, and offers a full 72 hours, three days, of power reserve. Thinness no longer costs you a thing in practicality.'

Bvlgari
The new Octo Finissimo 37 and, at its heart, the BVF 100 calibre: an automatic movement 2.35 mm thick with a platinum micro-rotor.
Bvlgari
The micro-rotor and radiating Cotes de Geneve seen through the transparent case back: engineering as precise as the eye.
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"Thinness is not a lack; it is the most hard-won discipline."

Paolo, master at Bvlgari

The Origin of the Octagon: From Rome to the Wrist

Elena traced the sharp, many-faceted geometry of the case with her finger. 'This octagon reminds me of this city,' she said. Paolo nodded. 'Because it is. The octagonal form of the Octo comes straight from Roman architecture; in particular from the octagonal transition ancient basilicas used to pass from a square base to a round dome. Bvlgari was born in this very city, in Rome, in 1884. This watch takes the geometry carved into that city's stone and carries it to the wrist.'

'Each of the dozens of facets on the case is polished and brushed one by one, by hand,' he added. 'Look: the sandblasted titanium draws the light inward, giving a matte, powdery grey; the polished chamfers right beside it throw that same light back like the edge of a blade. Titanium is far lighter than steel, which is why the watch sits on the wrist almost like a feather. Make the same octagon in 18-carat yellow gold and a wholly different character is born: warm, weighty, self-assured.'

Bvlgari
The octagonal geometry of the sandblasted titanium case: Roman architecture carried onto the wrist.

The Same Octagon, Different Souls: The Summit of the Summit

'And does this thinness have a limit?' asked Elena. Paolo's eyes lit up. 'There a legend almost lives. This year Bvlgari unveiled the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon: just 1.85 millimetres thick from front to back, the thinnest flying tourbillon in the world. Think of it: that delicate rotating cage, forever turning against gravity to cancel out the watch's errors, fitted inside a case no thicker than two credit cards stacked together. Only ten are made, and it has a blue, skeletonised dial.'

'The same family also holds a sandblasted titanium Minute Repeater,' said Paolo. 'Press a slide and tiny hammers strike gongs, chiming the time out loud. Getting a strong, clear sound from a thin case is almost impossible, because there is no cavity for the sound to resonate in. Bvlgari managed even that. This is the point where engineering quietly turns into poetry.'

Bvlgari
The 18-carat yellow-gold Octo Finissimo: the same octagonal language, a warm and stately soul.
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"To draw a clear sound from a thin case is the moment engineering turns into poetry."

Paolo, master at Bvlgari

The Essence That Remains

Elena fastened the watch to her wrist. She barely felt its weight; it was as though time simply rested there, on her wrist, laying no burden upon her. She looked at the dial: not one unnecessary line, not one figure too many. Only the hours, the minutes, and a quiet small seconds at seven o'clock. Just like her own models; everything, only as much as it needed to be.

'Now I understand,' she said. 'This is not an absence, but a purification. When the excess is thrown away, the essence that remains is beautiful in its purest form. You were right, Paolo; a watch, like a building, can be made through the art of subtraction.'

Paolo looked at the watch on her wrist and added softly: 'True luxury lies not in the gold or the steel you carry, but in every gram you do not carry. The Octo Finissimo whispers this to the wrist: the more lightly time is carried, the more freely it flows.' In the emptiness of the studio, the facets of the octagonal case quietly reflected the midday light of Rome.

Bvlgari
The Octo Finissimo on the wrist: a weight barely felt, and time in its purest form.
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"True luxury lies not in the gold you carry, but in every gram you do not."

Elena, architect
Category New Releases
Author Hasan Bekmezci
Published Temmuz 24, 2026
Read Time 5 min read
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